EXPLORING KOREA: Stories from Milwaukee to the DMZ and across a divided Peninsula. This special series explores historical sites and cultural traditions from across the Korean Peninsula, building a bridge back to the search for identity in Milwaukee. From the occupation of Korea at the end of World War II, to Korean War veterans in Milwaukee, veterans from Milwaukee who served in later years at the DMZ, adopted South Korean children who grew up in Milwaukee, different waves of the South Korean diaspora who moved to Milwaukee to raise their families, and even a defector from North Korea, their stories share generations of Korean and American experiences. https://mkeind.com/koreanstories

After spending the first of several days at the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea, Milwaukee Independent returned to Seoul and encountered renowned artist Jinseon Kim at City Hall, during the public display of her “Seoul Records by a Seoulite” exhibit.

The meeting and interview led to a truly magical opportunity, where Milwaukee Independent spent a day with the artist and followed in the steps of her book “② 호선 부루마블. Get on, Get off, Get green on Subway line 2.”

Combined with her art exhibition “Seoul Records by a Seoulite,” the illustrated book visually captured the vibrant essence of Seoul’s Subway Line 2. Known for its circular route that connects key districts of the city, Line 2 is much more than just a transportation system. It is a cultural artery that reflects the daily lives, histories, and urban pulse of Seoul.

Through Jinseon’s artistic lens, her illustrations brought to life the landmarks and neighborhoods that Line 2 connected. Spending a day on Line 2 provided Milwaukee Independent with a unique social and cultural experience of those spaces by matching Jinseon’s whimsical yet detailed depictions of historical sites and local traditions with the reality of place and identity.

Many stops served as a guide through the physical subway line and the heart of Seoul’s evolving urban landscape, making the visual journey both educational and enriching. This feature combines images taken on that day of exploration by senior photojournalist Lee Matz, and journal entries about the experience written by Jinseon.

PROLOGUE

“We started at Euljiro 3-ga Station, got off at Sports Complex Station, and then returned to Euljiro 3-ga Station. The weather was extremely hot, almost melting us, but our enthusiasm was just as intense as the heat. It was the first time I’ve ever had so many photos taken of me in one day. It was a truly special experience.” – Jinseon Kim

BREAKING DOWN LANGUAGE BARRIERS

“I even get nervous in front of my close friends’ cameras. But this time, since it was our second meeting and there was a language barrier, I was even more nervous than when I am in front of my friends’ cameras. The language barrier was my biggest concern. When we can’t communicate through language, we pay more attention to each other’s expressions. Normally, I get quite stiff in front of the camera. I was very surprised when Lee Matz said he thought I was uncomfortable; that wasn’t the case at all. I think my nervous expression might have led to that misunderstanding. Since I couldn’t express that I was enjoying and participating with words, I suggested some photo ideas to show how I felt through my actions. In fact, even though I might come across as reserved at first, I’m actually quite good at making jokes and having fun once I get to know people. It seems that not being able to communicate in the language made me appear shyer than I am. The disappointment of not being able to explain my work and my thoughts at the exhibition, and not being able to present myself as I truly am, has made me want to study English again.” – Jinseon Kim

THE FIRST TIME I VISITED THE 1988 SEOUL OLYMPIC STADIUM

“When I was young, I went to Jamsil Baseball Stadium to see performances by Korean singers. However, I had never been to the nearby Olympic Stadium until I visited it with Lee for the first time. It was also a special experience. I was very young back then and have no memories of the Olympics, but I know the famous song “Hand in Hand” and the opening ceremony well since they are so famous, and I really like that song. Being at the venue now, I can still feel the thrill of that experience. I view the Olympics as a gathering of people from around the world and a global festival. In that sense, the 1988 Seoul Olympic Stadium and Jamsil are very significant areas and places in Seoul. Going to such an Olympic stadium with an American photojournalist was even more special!” – Jinseon Kim

BACK TO EULJIRO 3-GA

“We returned to Euljiro 3-ga and walked through the Coffee Han-Yak-Bang and the alleys of the Euljiro industrial district together. Coffee Han-Yak-Bang is a place I used to visit often with my close friends, so it was wonderful to go there with Lee and see that he liked it – although he was disappointed that the melon bread was sold out. Even though there was a language barrier while we were exploring together, I enjoyed getting to know each other better and becoming closer. I think that next time we meet, we’ll be able to create even more fun and engaging moments. Lee is truly an excellent creative partner. I’d like to meet again next time, whether in Milwaukee or Seoul.” – Jinseon Kim

EPILOGUE

“In the beginning, we met at Seoul City Hall, the most important administrative center in Seoul. When we met again, we rode Seoul’s Subway Line 2, the only line that travels exclusively within Seoul (along with my Line 2 drawing book). We visited one of Seoul’s most significant places, the 1988 Seoul Olympic Stadium. We also went to a café in Seoul that operates in a historically significant location. In a short time, we explored important places throughout Seoul. Despite the language barrier, we became quite close in a relatively short time through each other’s efforts and consideration. I believe it’s because of the art that connects us, through the exhibition and the photos. Art transcends borders and boundaries, touching and connecting people’s hearts. It was an honor to have shared that experience with Lee.” – Jinseon Kim

Lee Matz and Jinseon Kim

Lее Mаtz

Jinseon Kim

EXPLORING KOREA: Stories from Milwaukee to the DMZ and across a divided Peninsula. This special series explores historical sites and cultural traditions from across the Korean Peninsula, building a bridge back to the search for identity in Milwaukee. From the occupation of Korea at the end of World War II, to Korean War veterans in Milwaukee, veterans from Milwaukee who served in later years at the DMZ, adopted South Korean children who grew up in Milwaukee, different waves of the South Korean diaspora who moved to Milwaukee to raise their families, and even a defector from North Korea, their stories share generations of Korean and American experiences. https://mkeind.com/koreanstories