The Soul of Seoul: A photographic look at the dynamic streets and urban layers of a megacity

EXPLORING KOREA: Stories from Milwaukee to the DMZ and across a divided Peninsula. This special series explores historical sites and cultural traditions from across the Korean Peninsula, building a bridge back to the search for identity in Milwaukee. From the occupation of Korea at the end of World War II, to Korean War veterans in Milwaukee, veterans from Milwaukee who served in later years at the DMZ, adopted South Korean children who grew up in Milwaukee, different waves of the South Korean diaspora who moved to Milwaukee to raise their families, and even a defector from North Korea, their stories share generations of Korean and American experiences. https://mkeind.com/koreanstories

As the capital city of South Korea, Seoul is a place where the threads of history are intricately woven into the fabric of modernity.

Seoul has been continuously inhabited for more than two millennia, carrying the weight of Korea’s storied past. Its history is foundational to understanding the South Korea of today. It is a city that has seen war, colonization, and rebirth, yet remains a beacon of cultural and technological advancements.

Haechi, Seoul’s official mascot, was developed in 2009 as a branding effort to create a recognizable symbol for the capital and to promote it as a global city. The streets of Seoul offer a deeper glimpse into the life of the metropolis, from its bustling markets, to its hidden alleyways, and thriving street art.

Seoul’s streets pulse with a flow of life that is vivid, raw, and unfiltered. This photo essay captures candid moments of the daily rhythm, from the crowded alleyways of bustling markets to the quiet pauses in hidden corners. The collection of images shares the energy, spontaneity, and style that define the dynamic city.

ANCIENT BEGINNINGS

Seoul’s documented history dates back to the 4th century AD, but its prominence began during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) when it became the capital of the nation. It was then called Hanyang (한양). The Joseon kings established Seoul as their political and cultural center, building many of the palaces, gates, and fortifications that still stand today.

20TH CENTURY TURMOIL

The 20th century was a turbulent time for Seoul. After centuries of isolationism during the Joseon period, Korea opened its doors to the world at the end of the 19th century. However, it soon fell under Japanese rule from 1910 to 1945, a period marked by cultural suppression and exploitation. During the Japanese occupation, Seoul was renamed Gyeongseong (경성), and much of its traditional architecture was altered or destroyed to make way for Japanese colonial buildings.

Following liberation from Japanese rule in 1945, Korea was split into two, leading to the Korean War (1950-1953). Seoul was at the heart of the conflict, changing hands several times during the fighting and suffering near-total destruction. The scars of the war are still present in the city’s collective memory, and landmarks such as the War Memorial of Korea (전쟁기념관) serve as a reminder of the cost of division.

Despite the devastation of the Korean War, Seoul quickly rebuilt itself in the decades that followed. What was once a war-torn city has transformed into one of the most technologically advanced urban centers in the world. Its economic growth has been called the “Miracle on the Han River.”

THE RISE OF MODERN SEOUL

By the late 20th century, Seoul had fully embraced modernization and global capitalism. Today, it is celebrated as a hub for global business, technology, and entertainment. But Seoul’s identity is not just in high-rise buildings and neon lights. The city’s charm lies in its ability to embrace both the old and the new. Insadong (인사동) offers a glimpse into the traditional arts and crafts of Korea, with tea houses and antique shops lining its streets, while the nearby Namsangol Hanok Village (남산골 한옥마을) preserves the architecture of the hanok (한옥), traditional Korean houses, against the backdrop of modern Seoul.

STREET CULTURE

Beyond the luxury stores and historic palaces, the true spirit of Seoul can be found in its streets. Seoul’s street culture is vibrant, dynamic, and ever-evolving, shaped by its youth, artists, and everyday people. The murals along the banks of the Cheonggyecheon (청계천), a nearly 7-mile stream that runs through downtown Seoul, is one example. Originally covered up and used to dump sewage during South Korea’s rapid urbanization after the Korean War, Cheonggyecheon was restored in 2005. The stream now serves as a green space, hosting murals along the walking paths that reflect both historical and contemporary themes.

One of the most iconic aspects of Seoul’s street culture is its food. In places like the Kwangjang Market (광장시장) and Namdaemun Market (남대문시장), street vendors selling everything from the spicy rice cakes called tteokbokki (떡볶이) to the sweet pancakes known as hotteok (호떡). The street food scene is a vital part of Seoul’s culinary identity. For many, the true taste of Seoul can be experienced in these bustling markets.

THE FUTURE OF SEOUL

Seoul is a city that thrives on change while deeply respecting its traditions. As South Korea continues to grow as a global cultural and technological force, Seoul stands at the crossroads of that development. The city is constantly evolving, whether through the evolution of smart city initiatives, increased environmental sustainability efforts, or its status as a leader in digital technology.

Named after Eulji Mundeok, the general who saved Korea from the invading Sui dynasty of China, Euljiro (을지로) is a vibrant district in Seoul known for its blend of old and new. Historically an industrial hub filled with hardware stores, printing shops, and metal factories, Euljiro has recently evolved into a trendy area with hip cafes, art galleries, and creative spaces.

As a city that has risen from the ashes of war to become a beacon of progress, Seoul’s future looks as bright as its neon-lit streets. It is a city where history lives alongside modernity, where the past is not forgotten but celebrated, and where every street corner has a story to tell.